Nezu Museum in Japan

A serene oasis in the middle of Tokyo, Nezu Museum’s intimate garden offers a quiet retreat from the bustling energy of Japan’s capital. Only 1.5km from the pedestrian scramble and overwhelming neon of Shibuya Crossing, this shinzanyukoku garden, which evokes the tranquillity of Japan’s deep mountains and mysterious valleys, transports you to another world.

Entering the museum via a striking corridor lined with bamboo, you start to get a sense of being enveloped by nature. Then, as you step into the garden, you find yourself wrapped in its verdant cloak, even before it has begun to reveal its secrets.

Time seems to slow in the moment as you meander along narrow cobblestoned paths in the shade of magnificent trees that create ethereal arbors. But time never stands still, and each season in the garden brings its own virtues. In late spring, for instance, fresh lime-green foliage illuminates the canopy, while swathes of flowering iris by the ponds add a scattering of purple. Other lovely vistas feature cloud-pruned pine trees, Japanese tea houses, and the sweetest traditional houseboat reflected in the pond’s glassy surface.

Nezu Museum

Nezu Museum’s superb collection of pre-modern Japanese and East Asian art was begun by Japanese businessman Nezu Kaichiro (1860–1940) when he was in his 20s. He wanted the fine works he had acquired to be accessible to the public, so when he died suddenly, his son established a foundation and opened Nezu Museum in 1941 on the site where the family once resided. The collection includes paintings, calligraphy, sculptures, metalwork, ceramics, lacquerware, timber and bamboo crafts, textiles, armour and archaeological specimens. Nezu was also an enthusiastic practitioner of the way of tea, which is reflected in the tea wares he collected.

Fortunately, many of the museum’s precious pieces were transferred to a safe location during World War II, where they survived the devastating firebombing of Tokyo in 1945. The galleries, tea house and garden were destroyed, but rebuilding began and exhibitions resumed in 1946.

The museum’s facilities continued to expand, and today there are four tea houses nestled in the garden, along with two large ponds, stone sculptures and a small shrine.

When travelling, I often find that art, gardens and culture are intrinsically linked. Nezu Museum is the perfect example of this convergence, as both its galleries and garden reflect the spirit of place. Allow a few hours to immerse yourself in the garden, soak up the atmosphere and, of course, take tea in the airy on-site cafe while you enjoy floor-to-ceiling views of the garden’s luxuriant plantings.

Need to know

Nezu Museum is a short walk from Exit A5 or Exit B3 of Omotesando Station (Ginza, Hanzomon and Chiyoda subway lines), or from Minami Aoyama 6-chome bus stop on Metropolitan Bus Shibu 88 that runs between Shibuya and Shimbashi Station. The museum and garden open 10am to 5pm (last entry 4.30pm) from Tuesday to Sunday (check website for exceptions). Entry is about $15, and special exhibitions may attract a separate fee. Tea, coffee and light meals are available at the museum’s Nezucafé overlooking the garden.

For more information, visit nezu-muse.or.jp/en/

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Words and photos by Kim Woods Rabbidge