Aphids

These sap-sucking pests focus their feeding on new growth, which the spring season offers plenty of, not only in the ornamental garden, but also throughout the patch and home orchard.

You’re likely to see aphids appearing on citrus trees, stone fruit, pome fruit and others. They may also be found on cabbages, broccoli, cauliflower and kale, feeding in large clusters on the undersides of leaves. Lettuces, cucumbers, squash, tomatoes and capsicums can be affected too. And keep a close eye on the new shoots on bean plants.

Aphids can do a lot of damage, causing leaves to curl and distort. Large infestations can severely weaken plants, reducing production. Aphids release a sticky, sugary exudate (honeydew), which may completely cover leaves and become mouldy (sooty mould). In some cases, aphids can be the vectors of harmful viruses, spreading diseases from infected plants to healthy plants via their mouthparts.

When conditions are ideal, aphids multiply at an alarming rate. To capitalise on a feeding opportunity, female aphids can even reproduce without the aid of a male. Yes, they clone themselves, giving birth to females that clone themselves too… and they’re born already pregnant!

Thankfully, aphids are reasonably easy to control, but you need to catch them early and persistently manage return offenders. The quickest and simplest method is to grab a hose, set the nozzle to a fine spray, and blast them off with a few sharp jets of water. Just be mindful of plants with delicate foliage and set your water pressure accordingly.

Horticultural soap and oil sprays are very effective. These weaken and disrupt aphid cell membranes, and cause dehydration or suffocation. It’s important to make direct contact with the aphids, so be thorough when applying. Avoid using these when temperatures are high, as they may cause foliage damage. Instead, wait for the cool of the late afternoon, and hose off any residue the following morning if another hot day is forecast.

Photo by Photography by Natsky