Crucifix orchid

Being an apartment dweller, my entire garden is grown in pots, and one of my go-to plants is the humble crucifix orchid (Epidendrum spp).

This orchid handles the challenging conditions of wind, heat and erratic watering on my rooftop garden, all the while producing clusters of beautiful flowers. It grows with attractive foliage, intriguing aerial roots and, of course, those lovely blooms, which can be cut to admire indoors. It can be grown alone in a large pot, as a backdrop with other smaller plants in front, or even in garden beds.

Crucifix orchid is the common name given to a collection of orchids within the genus Epidendrum. What unites all of the crucifix orchids – and gives them their common name – is their labellum, or flower lip, which is raised and shaped like a cross.

These orchids are native to the tropical and subtropical regions of the US, and also spread through Central America and into South America. The majority are epiphytes that grow on tree branches, but a few are terrestrial and grow in free-draining soils. All form clumps of long canes with leaves spaced along their length and clusters of flowers at the tips. Most are sensitive to frost and prolonged cold weather.

How to grow crucifix orchids

The key to success with growing crucifix orchids is to ensure the plants have good drainage. Crucifix orchids happily grow attached to branches, in the forks of trees or in crevices in rocky outcrops where a bit of leaf litter can build up. The older varieties also grow directly in soils that drain quickly. They don’t take kindly to water hanging around their roots.

They also grow well in containers in an open, free-draining orchid potting mix that will hold some moisture while ensuring there’s enough air among the roots. If you’re a bit heavy-handed with watering, or have a moist climate, select an orchid mix with extra chunky bark.

Your crucifix orchids won’t demand to be fed; you can starve them and they’ll still grow. Of course, if you want denser plants and more flowers, then feed them! A liquid organic fertiliser every couple of weeks from spring to autumn does the trick. In areas with warm winters and continuous growth, feed year-round.

The older orange, red and mauve varieties can handle full sun all day, but they look more luxuriant if positioned somewhere that only gets half a day of sun (preferably just the morning sun). The newer cultivars, which have larger leaves and flowers, are more sensitive to being burnt, so give them gentle morning sun, all-day dappled sun or bright shade. Plants will be greener and grow more compact in these conditions.

Crucifix orchids flower on the ends of the new canes. After flowering finishes, new canes develop from the base of the old cane and the clump thickens up. Once a year, remove all the canes that have finished flowering by cutting them off at the base. This keeps the clump neat and tidy, and makes space for the new canes to grow up and flower.

Crucifix orchid pests

While crucifix orchids are rugged plants that have few problems with pests, there are two that you need to look out for.

In humid climates, mealybugs can be a pest and may be seen clustered on stems or leaf bases. In drier areas, two-spotted mite may appear under the foliage. Use a botanical oil or neem spray for organic control of both insects. In dry climates, regular watering of the foliage can be an effective deterrent against mites, as they prefer dry conditions.

Header image credit: Brent Wilson